Smokeys BBQ and Grill

 

Went to this bar in VIPPS local shopping centre of Masjid Moth, Greater Kailash II last night because there was Karaoke on and one member of our group is a very good singer and we wanted to give it a try.  When we arrived at 8pm the place was deserted!  I thought this can’t be a good sign but, fortunately, it didn’t take long for a very reasonable crowd to assemble.

We started off the food with a few starters which we all shared and they were delicious, from the potato skins through to the salad the tastes were not what I expected from an American BBQ joint.  We then took some time out and had a few drinks and had a go at the singing for a while.  Manish, the guy presenting the Karaoke, was fantastic getting everyone involved and even taking the mike himself to show us how it was meant to be done.

I was surprised at the high level of talent that was displayed on the microphone, I’m used to drunken evenings where people tend to shout rather than sing, so this made a very pleasant change.  Later we decided to have some food from the main course menu and I decided to try a burger.  It was delicious that all I can say, it wasn’t the McDonald style burger at all!  The meat had been hand-made and the dressing and salad were all very fresh.

After a few more beers I regret to say that I took on the mike and managed to destroy a perfectly good U2 song with my friend Rubin.  Still no one seemed to mind and the evening went by in that way a few excellent singers then some who destroyed other songs in a similar way to me.

If you are looking for somewhere fun to go mid-week then Smokeys is your place but watch out the price tag does get a bit steep if you don’t keep a check on it.  The price for the wines are terrible so don’t even look at those (we made that mistake).  I hope you enjoy it and if you have some stories to tell please share them with me.

The Bahai Temple (Lotus Temple) Delhi

East of Nehru place, this temple is built in the shape of a lotus flower and is the last of seven Major Bahai's temples built around the world. Completed in 1986 it is set among the lush green landscaped gardens.  You approach this temple from a dirty street that masks the beauty of what awaits you inside.  Even from a distance, as you approach, the Lotus shape of the temple is in stark contrast to the flat landscape it sits in.

The structure is made up of pure white marble The architect Furiburz Sabha chose the lotus as the symbol common to Hinduism, Buddhism,Jainism and Islam. Adherents of any faith are free to visit the temple and pray or meditate.  Around the blooming petals there are nine pools of water, which light up, in natural light. It looks spectacular at dusk when it is flood lit.

As the structure is constructed of marble and the internal space is vast with high ceiling it means, internally, it is very peaceful, quiet and cool.  The guides, who give you a short talk before you enter the temple, ask you not to speak and not to take pictures.  This means that even though I was surrounded by people on my visit I found the place very peaceful and relaxing.  I couldn't resist sitting in quiet prayer for a while before passing out of the doors to the noisy exterior of the gardens once again.

To gain access to the building you have to remove all footwear and then queue patently to enter.  You are then given a briefing before allowing entry to the cavernous interior.  There is no apparent prescribed way the building should be used as there is no pulpit or alter area, that I could see, the chairs seemed to be arranged pointing towards a central area.  I wasn't there for a formal session so I can only report that I don't know how the services would be carried out.  The building has been very much designed with the hot summers of Delhi in mind.  The windows allow mainly reflected light into the interior of the structure which has more than enough light to function well.

The only negative points are that the guards seem a little bit over zealous for a religious venue they were blowing whistles and shouting that we should stick to certain paths, exits and doorways.  If you ignore that minor distraction the Temple provides the traveler opportunities galore for fabulous photos and even time, in the cool, to restore a weary soul.

Depending on your time I would recommend a visit to the on site visitors centre where you get an insight into the construction of the building and some of the background.  The visitors centre is air-conditioned and cool so you can take as long as you need here.  There are some mementos you can buy there but they were mainly just books and and stuff to do with the Bahai faith.  The gifts are sold by the pool areas and are not visible in photographs (thankfully).  I would also recommend coming at around sunset to see the pools lit up in the evening sky.

A Visit to Karim's Restaurant at Jama Masjid Delhi

A cycle rickshaw ride from the Chawri Bizaar metro stop, Karim's is small, hidden gem in the dirty back streets of old Delhi. This drab roadside eatery is accessed through a tiny passage way that opens up to reveal a small courtyard (shown above) when you get inside the restaurant serves up the most authentic Mughlai fare in the city which is what you might expect considering who runs the place. Haji Zahiruddin comes from a family whose bloodline extends back to the chefs who conjured elaborate feasts in the courts of Mughal emperors. Generations of chefs honed their culinary wizardry in the nearby Red Fort until the last Mughal Ruler was toppled by the last British ruler in 1857. Returning to Delhi in 1911 after his family spent decades in exile. Haji Karimuddin, the grandfather of the present owner , setup shop in the same alleyway where his descendents now prepare their family recipes, each one a closely guarded secret.

They are certainly secrets worth keeping. Sumptuous curries like the lazeez murg saag ( A spicy chicken and spinach dish) or the Badshahi badaam pasanda (tender chunks of mutton simmered in a tangy almond paste) complement perfectly the selection of succulent grilled meats from the tandoor, an array of of flavorful rice biryanis studded with dried fruits and pungent spices and the steaming hot naans and rotis. Best of all these regal delights still come at dhaba prices. In this imperial city even paupers can eat like kings. 

The Health and Safety standards would never pass muster in any European city (that I have been to) but the food is unbelievably tasty, even to my western tongue. The picture below shows a fan blowing the smoke from the BBQ grill up toward the extractor fan (which may actually have worked at some point). There is a long line of customers waiting outside for any free table inside. We were encouraged (subtly) to vacate our table as soon as we had finished to allow other people to take our table.

On the whole the experience would have been daunting for people who did not know what to expect. The streets are narrow, dirty and congested. People push and stare at you and when you arrive at the restaurant the standards of cleanliness leave A LOT to be desired. If you can look past all that you will actually enjoy some wonderful dishes and it is so affordable that it doesn't really matter if you don't like one of the dishes on offer. Just order a selection (especially the dry meat dishes) and share with all the people at the table. Be prepared to eat with your fingers as this will enhance your experience and there is a sink to wash your hands in.

On the way back from the restaurant we didn't take one of the plentiful cycle rickshaws but elected to take one of the new additions to the Delhi street scene an electric rickshaw. These still allow these narrow streets to be accessible however they reduce the amount of pollution in the air around these congested streets.

Red Fort Delhi Visit

The Red Fort Delhi

I was fortunate to have visited the Red Fort during the winter months as I couldn't imagine walking around this massive structure in 50 degree heat.  The temperature on the day I visited was approximately 26 degrees and skies were beautiful, clear and sunny.  The Fort itself is really easy to get to if you want to travel independently (as I did) however, if you want a guide they are also plentiful.  My recommendation is, if you want a guide, to get one who won't take you to shops and restaurants that he gets paid for.  If you want to go to craft shops then do so but only if it's what you want as the taxi drivers get paid to take you to certain shops and restaurants.

The Red sandstone walls of the massive Red Fort (Lal Qila) rise 33-m above the clamour of Old Delhi as a reminder of the magnificent power and pomp of the Mughal emperors. The walls, built in 1638, were designed to keep out invaders, now they mainly keep out the noise and confusion of the city.

The main gate, Lahore Gate, is one of the emotional and symbolic focal points of the modern Indian nation and attracts a major crowd on each Independence Day.

The vaulted arcade of Chatta Chowk, a bazaar selling tourist trinkets, leads into the huge fort compound. Inside is a veritable treasure trove of buildings, including the Drum House, the Hall of Public Audiences, the white marble Hall of Private Audiences, the Pearl Mosque, Royal Baths and Palace of Colour.  An evening sound and light show re-creates events in India's history connected with the fort.

This is well worth spending some time at because the mood of the fort changes at different time of day.  In the morning it tends to be busy and bustling but by late afternoon the large courtyards are peaceful and calm.  People sit around eating and drinking relaxing in the late afternoon sun.  The evening light and sound show is very impress and changes the mood again of the building.

The pictures here are only a small selection as I don't want to clutter the post but there is plenty to see.  There isnt much to do except walk and take pictures but the layout is fairly user friendly.

The pricing again, in common with all major attractions in Delhi, is 250 rupees for foreigners and 10 rupees for Indians.

Qutab Minar Visit

Qutab Minar is a soaring, 73 m high tower of victory, built in 1193 by Qutab-ud-din Aibak immediately after the defeat of Delhi's last Hindu kingdom. The tower has five distinct floors, each marked by a projecting balcony and tapers from a 15 m diameter at the base to just 2.5 m at the top. The first three floors are made of red sandstone; the fourth and fifth floors are of marble and sandstone. At the foot of the tower is the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, the first mosque to be built in India. An inscription over its eastern gate provocatively informs that it was built with material obtained from demolishing '27 Hindu temples'. A 7 meter high iron pillar stands in the courtyard of the mosque. It is said that if you can encircle it with your hands while standing with your back to it your wish will be fulfilled. 

Its an amazing structure to think it was built so long ago.  The photos don't really do it justice (I'm not a professional photographer) as you can't appreciate the sheer scale.  I was convinced that the structure was leaning to one side slightly but everyone assured me that it is perfectly straight.  However if you look at my photo to the left it really does look tilted to me.

The big advantage of this attraction is that it is right in Delhi (so no long coach/taxi rides) and it’s not far from the Metro which runs through Delhi so it’s very inexpensive to get to.

The pricing for this, in line with other major Indian attractions, is 250 Rupees for foreigners and 10 Rupees for Indians.  I think £2.50 for seeing this amazing site is well worth it

In one of the pictures below you'll see a "stump" this is where one of the previous Indian rulers tried to make a second tower but failed miserably but it makes for a impressive pile of stones.  On the photo on the right below you will also see the 7 m high iron pillar I mentioned above.

Delhi Gourmet Club Lunch at the Made in Punjab Restaurant 15th December 2013

I joined a Facebook Group called The Delhi Gourmet Club where people come together a couple of times a month to enjoy a new restaurant together.  This event was my first so I didn't really know what to expect.  So on Sunday 15th Dec 2013 about 70 members of this club descended onto the Made in Punjab restaurant in Cyberhub Gurgaon.

The restaurant is new, as the whole of the Cyberhub complex is new, and they were trying to get some exposure so the rate they gave the club was excellent, 2100 rupees which at the time of writing is £21, the price included unlimited drinks and way too much food for me to eat.

The food was first class and this was not just my assessment some of the people from the DGC (Delhi Gourmet Club) are very knowledgeable about food and they were all very impressed with the quality of the food as well as the presentation.

On arrival we were greeted with drinks and I, as the new guy, was introduced around and I met some lovely people.  After about an hour of socializing we settled down to the first of many courses.  Obviously my western pallet didn't like some of the food offering but on the whole the food was first rate and there was plenty to drink.  The staff were very well trained and did their job of being available without being intrusive.

The lunch actually lasted around five hours but it didn't seem that long because everyone was having a nice time.  Fortunately, for me, the table I was at was filled with people who just loved to laugh.  We had a blast and other people at the event keep stopping at our table to enjoy the
atmosphere there.

One of the most impressive things about these events, for me, is that everyone speaks fluent English and ALL the conversation is carried out in English even at tables where all the people were from India! now that shows us up in the UK.

One very nice touch was that the menus were in the form of a scroll, which had been printed just for that event, and you could take them home as a reminder of the day.  If you look closely at the photo above you can see them neatly presented with a gold coloured bow around them.  When all the guests left they were given a little goodie bag filled with nice little touches, nothing expensive, just nice little things like little pouches filled with spice mixes and a miniature bottle of wine - just good little touches.

Looks like I have joined this club at the right time as the weather is perfect and it is the lead up to Christmas.  There is another event next week and I am looking forward to that already.

First Impressions

After travelling for just short of twenty four hours I was really glad to arrive at Indira Gandhi International Airport at approximately midday. We got off the plane quiet quickly and the journey through passport control was very straightforward, I must admit after travelling to many third world countries I was expecting to be held up at this stage so I was pleased that my route to baggage reclaim was not impeded.

Baggage reclaim was another story all together. I didn't realise the amount of luggage that the people on the flight had taken with them. I wish now I had taken some pictures as I have never seen the like of this before! Huge great bales of possessions held together with string and plastic bags mainly. The baggage allowance on Saudia Airlines is a very generous 46KG but no one had kept to that except me! All the other passengers were carrying bags that they could barely move! However I was in no mood to take photos I just wanted to get off the plane and head for the shower. It took about an hour and a half for my bags to finally arrive and for me to get through the green lane to the outside world.

Tyrone, the Indian office manager, had sent his driver to pick me up and he was patiently waiting for me outside the terminal building - so far so good. The weather is fantastic a lovely summers day (UK style) not too hot but certainly warm enough. Jassie, the driver, took me for a 30 minute drive to the hotel I would be staying in for the initial part of my time in India. The roads can best be described as chaotic. The first thing you notice in that everyone is blasting their car horn I don't know why as no one is really losing their temper, no one pays attention and it doesn't seem to serve any purpose but they all do it anyway. I will do a separate post about the roads as they deserve it and this post is about my first impressions.I was taken to the The Palms Town and Country Club a hotel in Gurgaon and it is superb.



Service, location and facilities are all great a very pleasant surprise after travelling all this way.  The hotel was even far enough from the roads to mute the incessant car horns - a good thing when I needed serious sleep.

Now it would be easy to focus on the negative aspects of Delhi but if that's what you're interested in then move on, I will mention all aspects but I won't dwell on the negative side of things.  Delhi is dirty, smelly, polluted, noisy and overpopulated but there is an energy here that is very appealing, it feels positive and vibrant, somehow I feel like I've come home.  I suppose because of my experience with Saudi Arabia then Delhi feels very similar.  Many Indian people fulfilled the working roles in Saudi and therefore I think the day to day living is so very similar.

A lot of people here, especially the young people, are very intelligent, very well qualified and very motivated.  Most people work very long hours and KNOW they have to earn their own rewards.  They know they can't rely on the state so they look after themselves and their families.

There is a lot of poverty here and some people are living in awful conditions but there are other people who live a very western-type lifestyle.  They are becoming upwardly mobile and consumer driven.  There are western style shopping malls popping up all over and the TV is pushing consumer goods like there's no tomorrow.


 We travel around in various forms of transport:

This is my favorite over here its called an Auto short for Auto Rickshaw.  They are everywhere they buzz around powered by motorcycle engines but they are very cheap, typically £1 will take you 20 minutes travel time.  The drivers can be a bit of a nightmare trying to bump up the fare especially if you are a westerner however they do still try and rip off native customers as well.  Also make sure you have small notes as they don't tend to have any change, especially in the morning.

I

If you want to travel any distance at all in Delhi I would suggest using the Metro system.  The roads are such a stressful experience and the Metro gets you there much more quickly.  The trains are clean and air-conditioned and they arrive every three or four minutes.  A word of caution however they get very crowded and the concept of personal space is not important here.  Hold onto your possessions I have already had my phone stolen on the Metro and it was in my front trouser pocket!  Some of the stations get very crowded and I think pickpockets will target people so just be aware.  The price of the Metro is the most appealing thing I take the Metro two or three times a day and it costs me less than £3 per week!

If you need to go somewhere off the beaten track or if you need to travel late you will need a cab.  You can get all sort of charging systems with these but I liked Meru cabs as they go by meter and they will wait for hours for you for very little cost

These are bicycle rickshaws.  I wouldn't recommend them as they are slow and aren't much cheaper than the Autos.  You do have to try them at least once just to say you've been on them.