A Visit to Karim's Restaurant at Jama Masjid Delhi

A cycle rickshaw ride from the Chawri Bizaar metro stop, Karim's is small, hidden gem in the dirty back streets of old Delhi. This drab roadside eatery is accessed through a tiny passage way that opens up to reveal a small courtyard (shown above) when you get inside the restaurant serves up the most authentic Mughlai fare in the city which is what you might expect considering who runs the place. Haji Zahiruddin comes from a family whose bloodline extends back to the chefs who conjured elaborate feasts in the courts of Mughal emperors. Generations of chefs honed their culinary wizardry in the nearby Red Fort until the last Mughal Ruler was toppled by the last British ruler in 1857. Returning to Delhi in 1911 after his family spent decades in exile. Haji Karimuddin, the grandfather of the present owner , setup shop in the same alleyway where his descendents now prepare their family recipes, each one a closely guarded secret.

They are certainly secrets worth keeping. Sumptuous curries like the lazeez murg saag ( A spicy chicken and spinach dish) or the Badshahi badaam pasanda (tender chunks of mutton simmered in a tangy almond paste) complement perfectly the selection of succulent grilled meats from the tandoor, an array of of flavorful rice biryanis studded with dried fruits and pungent spices and the steaming hot naans and rotis. Best of all these regal delights still come at dhaba prices. In this imperial city even paupers can eat like kings. 

The Health and Safety standards would never pass muster in any European city (that I have been to) but the food is unbelievably tasty, even to my western tongue. The picture below shows a fan blowing the smoke from the BBQ grill up toward the extractor fan (which may actually have worked at some point). There is a long line of customers waiting outside for any free table inside. We were encouraged (subtly) to vacate our table as soon as we had finished to allow other people to take our table.

On the whole the experience would have been daunting for people who did not know what to expect. The streets are narrow, dirty and congested. People push and stare at you and when you arrive at the restaurant the standards of cleanliness leave A LOT to be desired. If you can look past all that you will actually enjoy some wonderful dishes and it is so affordable that it doesn't really matter if you don't like one of the dishes on offer. Just order a selection (especially the dry meat dishes) and share with all the people at the table. Be prepared to eat with your fingers as this will enhance your experience and there is a sink to wash your hands in.

On the way back from the restaurant we didn't take one of the plentiful cycle rickshaws but elected to take one of the new additions to the Delhi street scene an electric rickshaw. These still allow these narrow streets to be accessible however they reduce the amount of pollution in the air around these congested streets.